Posts Tagged ‘socialization’

Off Leash Play: what’s ok at the dog park?

Friday, October 8th, 2010

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 Spring is in full force now and Summer is comming up fas,t I think it is time to talk about dog behavior in dog parks.

As my puppy grew I would frequently take him to a puppy socialization group. He loves to play with other dogs, he has a passive nature and easily become fearful but with dogs he has always fety comfortable. He is confident around most dogs but does best with dogs that have a similar play style to his and particularly small dogs, his play style can be a bit rough (I am apologising to the Chihuahua he nearly stepped on last week). He likes to body slam other dogs and he enjoys chasing and being chased. He will also stop and have a good wrestle with a willing partner.

Ripley is a year and a half old now, which is certainly not a puppy anymore, well into adolescence really. So why do I continue to bring him to the socialization group? I do, because I have seen a huge benefit to puppies that meet a slightly older dog with manners.

Quite a few times now I have seen a puppy get over aroused or over threshold with the stress of the introduction to a socialization group. That’s my polite way of saying they were scared sh*tless. So I gently encourage  their owner to bring them to a quiet area of the park and I bring Ripley along. I have found that when a young dog is showing fear (lunging, screaming, panicking on the lead, or just cowering between legs) it just takes a few minutes of Ripley on his own, inviting them to play, but not being pushy, to turn things around. He offers a play bow, and if they seem scared he immediately turns his side to them and sniffs the grass, a classic calming behavior. This gives the puppy confidence and very soon they are romping and batting at each other!

Not all dogs at a play group can be so easy going as Ripley. Recently a dog about Ripley’s age showed up and started nipping and bullying the other dogs, large or small he didn’t care. He would bark  and lunge towards them in a way that made me distinctly uncomfortable. It was obvious this dog had not had enough socialization as a young puppy, and the owner was trying to make up for it at almost a year old. Unfortunately, this means that a bunch of tender, impressionable youngsters are being subjected to what is in essence a bully.

I hear a lot about how dogs should “sort it out” themselves, and maybe sometimes this is true, if the dogs are similar sizes, ages, and socialization level. But more often than not people can’t read dog body language well enough to know when a situation with a playgroup is going from “argument” level to “fist fight”. Even Ripley occasionally will have a moment of “predatory drift” with a smaller dog, and to me, that is inappropriate behavior and I interrupt him.

So please don’t be afraid to interrupt a dog/dog interaction if you are uncertain of what is happening, just because the other owner says “its alright” doesn’t mean you should let your dog be subjected to bullying, or let your dog traumatize a puppy. As smart as many dogs are at reading social cues and body language, there are plenty of dogs out there that wouldn’t know a calming signal if it sat on them! So don’t risk your dog’s well being just because you think it might be OK, if you are even a little unsure, then interrupt and redirect. For more on this subject I recommend reading Off-Leash Dog Play by Robin Bennet and Susan Briggs.

Ian Dunbar- Notes on the Lecture in Christchurch

Wednesday, February 24th, 2010

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I actually just finished reading his book “After You Get Your Puppy” the night before the seminar. I signed up for the Ian Dunbar lecture because although I had never read one of his books, he had been referenced in many of the dog behavior books I have read.

If I were to pick the most important thing I gleaned from Dr. Dunbar’s lecture I think the it would be how dependent we all are on our dog breeders in New Zealand. It is really up to them whether we start out with a puppy who is socialized with many different people/noises/situations so that they are a behaviorally healthy and confident pup or if we get a puppy that is physically healthy but will be prone to shyness and house soiling! The most important socialization for a puppy happens BEFORE they are 8 weeks old!

It sure would be fantastic if any of the breeders in the Wellington area are interested in this information or already socialize, chew toy and crate train their puppies before 8 weeks old, then I would love to hear from you. I would like to start a  page on my site with a list of conscientious dog breeders, so that when my clients are looking for a puppy I can give them names of breeders that I know will provide them with a puppy that is not only physically healthy but mentally health as well!

Ian Dunbar’s Website

Shelter Adoption

Saturday, January 16th, 2010

MacDog adoption is a big decision for any family. There are pros and cons just like with any major decision in life, and this decision is going to affect your entire family dynamic. I am not talking about adopting a puppy relatively, that is easy. Puppies are not all the same, but in many ways you get a clean slate with a puppy. It doesn’t matter where they come from. Much of a puppy’s behaviour is going to be based on his environment and if you are a reasonable and responsible dog owner, then you have done a little research and decided how you want to raise your puppy. 

Adopting a dog that is 5+ months old is another game altogether. They have gone through many of their critical introduction periods with very little help from anyone, as most shelters are too busy keeping that puppy physically healthy and fed.  Because of this you may get a dog with some “issues”. Many shelter staff may be able to give you an idea of what particular issues this dog may have trouble with, but many times you just won’t know until you get them out of the shelter environment and into your home.

At the Wellington SPCA  I work with many dogs on many different issues. Some of which will be easily solved by removing them from the stressful shelter environment. It is an unfortunate fact that no matter how “good” a shelter and how committed it’s staff, a shelter is not an ideal place for a dog. Dog’s are pack animals and it is highly stressful for them to be in a situation where they have no or very little pack dynamic. 

Other issues, like high reactivity due to poor social skills, is seen all too often and will probably hold over into a home environment. High reactivity means that the dog has a very low threshold  tolerance to novel stimuli. This will manifest itself as screaming, lunging, and charging  when the dog encounters this new stimuli or “trigger”.

If you have been thinking about adopting please don’t let this frighten you. Most shelter dogs don’t have this problem and the ones that do are still worth considering as your new  family member. There is nothing more rewarding than giving a dog, who has had a hard or downright tragic start in life, a safe and loving home where they can learn what it means to have a good family/pack.

So what do you do if you have found your perfect dog, and he turns out to be a little less perfect than you had hoped? There are solutions, but they do take a lot of consistency and dedication from your entire family. The saddest thing I see is when a family has adopted a dog and can’t see it through. Because it is hard work and for awhile it feels like your life is falling apart. This may seem melodramatic but those families out there who have been through this know what I am talking about. DSC_1857

I felt it was important to bring this up as many people are adopting from the shelters this summer. For those people I just want to say, there is  a light at the end of the tunnel. When your new companion truly trusts you, and settles into his new pack, things get easier. Through work on thresholds,  leadership, and foundation exercises, even the most reactive dog can learn to relax. Remember its a dog’s life, so lets enjoy it!