Archive for the ‘Uncategorized’ Category

Toilet Training for Beginners

Friday, July 30th, 2010

Paige (2)

Many of the dogs I see are not toilet trained. The first question I always ask these clients is “How often does shadow NEED to go to the toilet?”, the answer I get most often is “I don’t know.”

Toilet training becomes immensely easier when you can answer this question with complete confidence. There is a quick rule of thumb for house training puppies that is; 2 months old = 2 hours, 3 months old = 3 hours, 4 months old = 4 hours, etc…  Then your puppy can probably hold a little longer at night. Some puppies can sleep through the night, others might need a potty break.

The way to figure out how often your puppy actually needs to go is to start timing her. I encourage my clients to keep a Training Log. You keep the notebook by the door and whenever anyone takers her out for a break they write in the book; what time, what she did (pee or poo), and how long it took. Keeping the log will keep everyone in the house on the same timetable and show you quite clearly how often shadow actually needs to go out.

For people that have their dog mostly toilet trained (1-2 accidents/week). keeping the log will help you get over that last hurdle. However for beginners (young puppies) you will probably need to do a bit more to ensure the house is accident free.

1. Shadow should NOT get free reign of the house and should always be supervised. This is especially true when she hasn’t had a break in awhile. If you can’t supervise her, then I highly recommend getting a crate and doing some positive crate training. She can stay in the crate with a chew toy when you are too busy to watch her, and she may not be “empty”.

2. Keep to a schedule, and let her out before she HAS to go. This is especially true if you are having morning accidents. If she goes at 5:30 AM then set your alarm for 5AM! (then go back to bed). This will help her build her trust in you, she will get to go out before she feels like it is an emergency!

3. Always positively reinforce going outside. Give a special treat for using the toilet outside (a small bit of dried liver afterwards)! This will encourage her to hold it until she can go out, she learns to differentiate between indoors and out! Why would she go inside when she waits a little longer and gets a treat for going out!

4. For heaven’s sake don’t scold or punish accidents! That means no growling, yelling, slapping or rubbing her nose in it. All this will do is convince her of your insanity and make her try to hide the next accident in a closet, a shoe, or your kid’s room. If you have already started training this way, then stop immediately and start with the previous steps, build her trust in you again and you will start having less accidents. Although she may occasionally regress if she feels unsafe going to the bathroom outside when you are near.

The moral of this story is; stay positive and calm, clean up messes with no fuss, stay on a schedule, and reinforce with treats for going in the correct place. Stay consistent and you will have a toilet trained puppy or dog in no time at all!

Things My Dog Likes

Wednesday, July 21st, 2010

DSC_1254 Everyone should know what their dog likes. This is important because if you don’t know what he likes you can’t motivate him. It is also good to write a list of things he doesn’t like (some of these might surprise you). So I am going to write a list for my dogs, and I would like you to do the same. You will pretty much be able to poach my list as dogs don’t tend to be unique in their likes/dislikes. However, if you come up with more I would love to hear them! So here is the list for my dog, Ripley.

LIKES:      Meals , Treats, Sticks/Balls (chasing), Running (off lead or on), other dogs, games, Clicker Training, sniffing, grass, Kong/Chew Toys, evening massage, cuddles on the couch.

DISLIKES:     Getting patted on the head,  Strangers (especially in the house but anywhere we aren’t “expecting them”, Kids who stare at eye level, Strangers who stare or reach over head, being “handled” by the vet.

There are actually quite a few things on both lists! And some may be surprising. Many people don’t realize how little, dogs like being petted around the top of their head. Many can get used to the experience, but few really see it as enjoyable. And you should never great a dog you don’t know that way. The point here is don’t use a head pat or ear ruffle as praise/reinforcement.

Some on the list are probably exclusive to my dog, or dogs with similar “stranger danger” issues. For instance he will play slap paws with anyone, but if that same person stared at him on the street I sure he would react with defensive barking .

This list is important because it shows me what things I can use as reinforcement. Treats aren’t the only way to reinforce (although frequently the easiest and fastest). A reinforcement can be ANYTHING the dog likes. This list also shows me what we still need to work on. Because of his past, Ripley will probably never be the social butterfly my other dog is with strangers, but there are a lot of things we can do to get strangers off the “dislike” list and at least move it over to the “ambivalent” list. Some of them eventually may even be moved to the “Like” list!

Book Review: The Culture Clash by Jean Donaldson

Saturday, July 10th, 2010

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As in the picture to the left, there are a lot of behaviors that we, as primates, consider gestures of affection, which dogs, instinctually, have no appreciation of.

Most dogs learn that kisses, hugs, and pats on the head mean that their humans are happy and so they learn to tolerate or even enjoy these gestures. But is it any wonder that a dog approached by a stranger may tend to duck  away when that person stretches their hand over the top of Fido’s head to pat him?  Even dogs who have never been hit, scolded, or dragged by the collar will frequently show signs of unease when approached this way.

The book The Culture Clash, Donaldson discusses how we can help dogs understand us better, and how trying to understand our dog’s viewpoint can help avoid behavior problems that eventually lead to dogs being “given up” or even euthanized! 

It is true that we shouldn’t have to behave like dogs in order for our dogs to live with us, but communication goes a long way to solving any relationship problem. Including the relationship problems we frequently have with our canine friends. Imagine if every time you had an argument with a human friend you yelled “NO"!!!” or worse yet,  slapped them with a newspaper…

And yet, our dogs remain our friends even after we frequently over react, brandish hands or newspapers, and believe they are “trying to get away with it” when they find sweet relief by peeing on the carpet behind the bedroom door. It would be great if every dog owner read this book and got some insight into their dog’s natural lives.

Lions Have a Sense of Humor

Wednesday, June 30th, 2010

Jambo 1

At the Big Cat Sanctuary in Spokane, WA, we had a lion named Jambo (ya-mm-bo). Jambo was by far my favorite of our Zoo residents because I absolutely am in love with Lions and Jambo was the only Male Lion at Cat Tales.

Jambo, however, was not the most charismatic of our cats. Lions are not like housecats, they don’t care about cleanliness the way you would expect your couch tiger to. Jambo smelled, his mane was a multitude of thick mats that had years to soak up faeces, urine, and other nasty things. Once I actually thought there was a dead squirrel on Jambo’s den box. When I entered his habitat  to clean it, I realized it was in fact a giant snarl of mane he had left behind (I took it of course)! When he was awake (which wasn’t often) he sat around with his tongue poking out of his mouth as if he just couldn’t be bothered to put it away.  Most of the time Jambo slept, so why was he the most appealing of the Big Cats to me?!

Jambo and I shared a joke. Cat Tales had a “Feed the Cats” program where guests could buy 10 chicken necks and feed a Lion or a Tiger through the fence. One of the keepers (like me) had to supervise these feedings by providing plastic gloves and instruction on how to feed the cat without losing a finger. The guests had a choice, feed a Tiger (Ali, was a beautiful, charismatic, friendly Bengal Tiger) or a Lion (Jambo, described in detail above). Most people chose the Tiger. But if I was the keeper on duty, and the “guest” was a large  football player showing off to his friends, I would steer him towards Jambo as the “more exciting” cat to feed.

It took Jambo a leisurely 5 minutes to  open his eyes, yawn, stretch, remove himself form the top of the den box, and saunter over to the fence to receive his well earned offering. In fact I could have timed this process to the second because Jambo and I knew this routine so well. Most of the other keepers liked feeding the tiger because he happily jumped up for his chicken necks, where Jambo was slow and rarely did the other keepers have the patience for this process.  So Jambo seemed to appreciate the fact that I would wait for him , I actually enjoyed his “process” because I knew at least partially that a lot of it was show. I believe he enjoyed the gasps and awe as he slowly extended his body, showing off his enormous muscles and  rough  mane to onlookers. He would then settle down by my guest and me and proceed to take chicken necks from the “large” rugby player-like guest.

After the tenth neck, came the fun part. Our inside joke that never got old. I would tell the young man with me that after the last neck he should open his empty hands to Jambo and say “No More”. That was Jambo’s cue. He opened his mouthed and submitted the man to the most sinister growl, then  slam his head-sJambo 2ized paw against the fence right at face level.

You can imagine the reaction. Absolutely side splitting every time!  Self satisfied he sauntered back to his den box to sleep the rest of the day.

This was not exactly a  zoo-approved behavior, although the owners of the park were rarely paying close attention to what happened there. And if I am being completely honest, it wasn’t a behavior I “conditioned” in any real way. It was almost as if I had stumbled upon a cue that someone else had conditioned long ago. The really interesting thing was that for other keepers at the park, it took an effort to get Jambo to participate at all in one of these “close encounter” sessions, so most of them just didn’t bother trying. I found that over time, Jambo would come more quickly and with more enthusiasm for one of my sessions. If that isn’t classical conditioning at work, I don’t know what is!

We All Need a Time-Out Sometimes.

Sunday, June 20th, 2010

Traditionally time outs are used as a punishment.  A time out is removing the dog from soTyson Sleepingmething they like (family time). This form of punishment is called “negative punishment”. This is unlike positive punishment  where something the dog doesn’t like is added to his environment (a smack on the nose). Either of these punishments are used after an undesirable behavior has been performed.

Here is an example situation. It is 6PM in the evening, the family is trying to watch TV, it is not yet Bella’s dinner time and she is getting antsy. She is sniffing around the couch, prodding people’s legs, trying to instigate playtime. Her family is trying to ignore her while they watch their favorite show. Eventually she gets so frustrated that she bounces up and plants her feet squarely on dad’s lap and playfully nips his arm.

This is obviously inappropriate behavior. It isn’t aggressive or dominant, just annoying!  Dad can choose two options to “punish” this inappropriate behavior. He will probably yell “owe!”  and stand up. Then he could grab the dog and smack her, this does not change the Bella’s behavior but it will probably make her more nervous around dad in the future. Or dad could take Bella over to the door and send her out of the room.

Bella now has to earn back her privilege of spending time with the family. A time-out that lasts for an hour won’t teach her anything, she may even start barking behind the door because she feels abandoned. Keep time-outs to less than 15 seconds.

The best method for a successful time-out is to shut the door, count to 3 slowly, and then crack the door open, ask her for a “Sit”. If she does not respond immediately, shut the door and count to 3 again. repeat this process until she is able to control herself enough to demonstrate a sit, then  allow her back in the room. For many dogs this short time out is plenty of time for them to get themselves under control. For many other dogs they are STILL excited and may go back to jumping around the room as soon as they get the opportunity. This time don’t wait until she has jumped up and nipped someone! Move her immediately back out the door and wait for another 3-5 seconds for her to control herself again.

Coaching a dog on how to behave appropriately in a human family environment is not always easy. You do need to be consistent and take the time to show them what you want, every single time. It can sometimes be a difficult, tiring, and frustrating task. But as every dog owner learns, its worth it! And if it gets too frustrating, then maybe you could use a time-out too occasionally. If you feel too frustrated and need a break, feel free to put yourself away for a little while until you can regain control. We all need time-outs sometimes!

Volunteer Work- making lives better!

Thursday, June 10th, 2010

Clare and Ellie

If you are thinking about adopting a dog or buying a new puppy from the pet store, might I suggest you volunteer at your local SPCA for a few months first?

Here is my reasoning. If you haven’t had a dog before, or haven’t experienced the joys of rescue dog ownership then a few months as a volunteer will help prepare you for the kind of time and effort you will need to put into your new family member. And to be realistic if you are finding it very difficult to even set aside 3 hours, once a week to volunteer how likely is it that you have the time needed to take care of a new puppy or dog for the rest of her life!?

If you are able to work in a couple hours a week dog walking for the SPCA, it will give you a very good idea if you can handle a dog with “issues”.  I say this because many of the dogs given up to the SPCA have been given up because of some VERY simple and easy to fix behavior problems. Problems like Jumping up and “high energy” are two that we see a lot. These dogs were not out of the ordinary dogs by any means but so often people adopt or buy a cute puppy and don’t go to the trouble to teach it manners or give it the exercise it truly needs, then when it hits adolescence at about 8 months old they get hit with all of the extremely normal dog behaviors and are shocked that their dog doesn’t “listen”.

If you see these issues up close, by volunteering, my hope is that you will  make sure to start teaching your new dog from the very first day you get it so you avoid these same problems or better yet you fall in love with one of these abandoned dogs or puppies and decide to adopt rather than buy!

I am sure you can all tell that I am a huge fan of people adopting rather than buying puppies. This is because there are SO MANY dogs and puppies sacrificed every year due to over population. Most of these dogs are executed simply because there is not enough room or resources to take care of the abundance of abandoned dogs (and cats). So yes, I advocate adoption from a shelter! Second best is to find a reputable breeder (someone who breeds for temperament and socialization) if what you really want is to have a purebred. I understand the appeal of puppies at pet stores, but really take a step back and look at what you are promoting. Then think of how much your home would mean to a dog that has been abandoned by the family that was suppose to love him forever?

Dogs For Adoption

The Dangers of Sand

Tuesday, June 1st, 2010

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You have seen Cooper featured on my website, in my blog photos and of course, as my logo! But poor little Cooper won’t be “dancing” or jumping, or chasing his beloved ball for awhile. About 3 weeks ago now Cooper had and accident while we were on the beach. He was happily and with a single mindedness chasing his ball as fast as his little legs could carry him up and down the sand. Ripley, our SPCA special, was there as well. Ripley gets mighty curious about the wide world and was off exploring the possible contents of the flax (there might be toast!). Cooper was as ever, charged up and waiting for the next Chuck-It toss. So charged up in fact, that he launched him self off the two foot drop from the grass to the sand, he hit hard but kept running, so I through the ball. He spun, snatched the ball out of the air, and… sat down.

So a very similar story goes for many dogs playing on the beach it turns out. Somehow the sand is a major catalyst in this sad tail. The way the sand traps the foot, allows the top of the leg to extend past the knee (it should really stop at the knee) and rupture the crutiate ligament, the main ligament the stabilizes and hold the joint together. Yes, ouch.

Although Cooper didn’t say ouch, he didn’t even flinch. He was sitting and nudging the ball towards me as if to say “ Come on, I’m fine! throw the damn ball already!”, but poor Cooper couldn’t stand up. It was a real Monty Python moment (its just a flesh wound!) and he was game for some more chasing. Needless to say that is not how the day turned out.

I called my vet there and then on the beach. Made an appointment for an hour later and I was soon getting the news that the most likely cause of his lameness was a crutiate rupture.

It has been a long three weeks, and there will be another 5 weeks of crate rest for Mr. Cooper. You can see from the picture, taken 5 days after the surgery, that he is not at all happy with the situation.

I know after any accident, that you will always blame yourself, whether it was avoidable or not (it always feels avoidable after the fact) but I really wish I had know about this “sand” issue before. I would have made a rule not to throw the ball unless we were on hard packed sand. Another interesting thing to note is that this injury is frequently seen in herding dogs with high “drive”. Drive is the term used for dogs that work with a single minded focus. It is great when you need a really reliable herder. Not so great when he isn’t paying attention to anything but sheep (or a ball in Cooper’s case) and ends up hitting a fence or twisting in just the right way to rupture the crutiate.

The good news is that the prognosis is good, he should be able to walk again in a few weeks and eventually chase a ball in a few months, but maybe not on the beach anymore.

Book Review: “Don’t Shoot the Dog!” by Karen Pryor

Wednesday, May 19th, 2010

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Originally published in 1984, “Don’t Shoot the Dog!” became an instant must read for any trainer, educator, or coach. It outlines in plain easy to understand English, how learning works.

I have actually been trying to get a hold of a copy for the last 5 years with no luck until it was finally reprinted in 2008 and I miraculously found it at a book store in Paraparaumu!

If you are interested in why some training methods do or don’t work for dogs, children or even adults then you will find this book extremely interesting. I train primarily using positive reinforcement and the learning theory that goes along with that. All of my clients get an introduction to this kind of theory and learn the basics in order to train their dogs successfully at home, but if only I could get every single one of them to read this book it would make my life so much easier!

Karen Pryor outlines the 8 ways you can change ANY behavior in ANYONE.

1. “Shoot the Dog”. This method obviously solves your behavior issue but is not the most appealing way to go…and teaches the subject nothing.

2. Punishment. Pryor talks about how punishment does and doesn’t work to change behavior (turns out is doesn’t work that well).

3. Negative Reinforcement. Removing an unpleasant stimulus when you get the behavior you want. This method is used by many trainers whether they realize it or not. For example pulling a horse’s reins to the right makes the horse turn right, in order to avoid the uncomfortable pulling sensation from the bit.

4. Extinction. No longer reinforcing a behavior you don’t like. This is a REALLY hard one to implement unless you have an iron will.

5. Train and incompatible behavior. I love this one. It involves a lot of new habit forming in both you and your pet, but once in place it is very affective.

6. Put the Behavior on Cue.  A bit of reverse psychology here. Put the barking on cue then only reinforce the barks you want. The dog stops barking unless asked to! Very nice!

7. “Shape the Absence”. You start reinforcing every behavior that is not a behavior you don’t like. I do this a lot when first teaching clients about marker training.

8. Change the Motivation. You convince the dog to WANT to do what you want them to do. Everybody wins! This is the method most used by successful trainers.

After outlining these eight methods, Pryor goes on to show you how to implement them in many different real world situations. In this new edition of the book she also has added a chapter in clicker “marker” training. She discusses when and how to use this type of training most effectively and why it works so well.

Pryor really is one of the leaders in animal training and by writing this book in 1984 was incredibly  ahead of her time. The ideas that she spells out in “Don’t Shoot the Dog” have been literally world changing and if it is possible, even more relevant today than it was almost 30 years ago.

Dogs on the Bed?!

Thursday, May 6th, 2010

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I had a call recently having to do with a highly reactive dog that was starting to bite and growl at his owners, the caller was a relative of one of the owners and she was certain that this bad behavior could have been prevented had the owner been more strict with their dog  “What did they expect when they allow the dog to sleep on the bed?!”  she asked me.

Is letting your dog sleep on the bed really as bad as people think? Some dog trainers still seem to think so. And certainly for a dog with uncertain boundaries in his every day life, being allowed to sleep on the bed  is likely going to promote the idea that the bed is at least partly his. This confusion in his life and in regards to the ownership of the bed can lead to exactly what my caller described. A reactive and quite possibly dangerous dog who feels it is is job to guard his bed, couch, home, food, bone, toy… etc. A dog like this doesn’t  realize that what he is doing could be worthy of capitol punishment in the human world. He is a dog that has assumed the role of “leader” for his house because he didn’t think his owners were up to the job, He is simply doing what any stressed, anxiety ridden, untrained leader would do; overreact and lash out in order to keep the troops in line.

I know, I have been there myself. I was an overworked, anxiety ridden, untrained manager in charge of a dozen teenagers in a large pet store in the US when I was just 22. I was out of my depth and had no idea how to get 12 adolescent adults to work with me or each other. I didn’t bite any of them, but I certainly was not the best manager in the world and I had been given no training to deal with the situation. Dogs get put into situations like this all the time, then punished for doing the best they can.

The thing is, all of this has absolutely nothing to do with  being allowed to sleep on the bed. Many very well known dog trainers allow their dogs access to their beds. To name a few, Suzanne Clothier, she talks about her dog’s  bed manners in Bones would rain from the Sky. Ian Dunbar allows his dogs to lay on him on the couch. I also am guilty of allowing my dogs to sleep on the bed or the couch. Do our dogs try to dominate us? Bite us? Do our dogs guard the bed or not allow us on our own couch? No, they absolutely don’t do any of these things because a bed is just a bed. In all other aspects of their lives, certainly the most important aspects, our dogs are given training, bonding, and leadership exercises as part of their every day life.

So here is the important question. If you allow your dog on the bed, will she get off if you ask her to? If the answer is yes, then great! If it is no, then maybe it is time to take a look at not just bed rules, but all the boundaries you have set for your dog and make sure she isn’t shouldering too much responsibility.

Kongs and Chewing

Wednesday, April 28th, 2010

DSC_3060 Think of all the things your dog is NOT allowed to chew…chair legs, cell phones, TV remotes, your children’s toys…. the list goes on forever. And yet, somehow we expect our pooches to know these things are not to be chewed on, while maybe a half dozen other items ARE allowed to be chewed on. How does the dog know the difference?

Dogs can learn the difference but they don’t know it automatically, we have to teach them. However, if we had to teach them each and every item they were not allowed to chew on that would take years! So here are three easy things you can do to prevent inappropriate chewing, and increase appropriate chewing!

1. Manage the Environment: Put away things you don’t want your dog to chew on. This may seem obvious, but really a dog can’t be expected to pick out his bone from a pile of kid’s toys on the floor. This also means a new dog or a puppy must be supervised especially when learning house rules to prevent mistakes. If mistakes are prevented, the dog never gets into the habit of chewing the TV remote in the first place!

2. Get Him Hooked on Food Stuffed Toys!: This part is easy, introduce your puppy/dog to a Kong or similar heavy rubber toy, stuffed with tasty treats. I use a mix of dry food, “Superior Chunky” dog roll, and small pieces of cheese! Sometimes I add boiled chicken breast or freeDSC_3066ze dried liver. Give these toys to your dog whenever you leave him alone or whenever you want to be left alone for awhile! If you are concerned about weight, then use half his meal ration instead of treats.

3. Trading Up: In a dog’s world, if something is in your mouth it is yours. So if you haven’t trained a solid “Drop-it” cue don’t expect your dog to understand that he should give you his hard sought prize (TV remote excavated from the couch cushions) just because you asked for it. Without a good Drop-it cue you are only setting yourself up for a game of chase, which hardly solves your problem. So if you have waivered from the “supervision  at all times” rule, and your new dog just found your cell phone on a chair at perfect doggie-nose-level, then you are much better off pretending you don’t care about the cell phone, grab a dog biscuit, and offer a quick trade. Say “Drop-it” as he loosens his jaws to drop the phone and take the treat. Then don’t forget to PRAISE him! Praise is a powerful motivation to many dogs and the treat will only reinforce how wonderful it is to give you things.