Archive for September, 2010

Putting a Behavior on Cue

Tuesday, September 28th, 2010

Suzie (1)

Putting an unwanted  behavior on cue is a method of training that has been used for at least the last 30 years. However it is still debated among trainers as to its effectiveness. I have used it myself with moderate affect based on the circumstances.

The idea is that if your dog is barking, or jumping up on the couch, you actually teach them to bark, or jump on the couch, the same way you would teach them a sit or a down. You show them the behavior you want … jumping on the couch, then you add a verbal cue for this behavior. The same goes for barking.

The flaw most people see right away is that if you encourage the inappropriate behavior, the dog learns that it is now a behavior that “might” get them reinforcement, so they attempt to elicit a reward by continuing the behavior you didn’t really want in the first place! The is termed “offering” a behavior, you have probably all experienced this when you say your dog’s name and she immediately sits. That is your dog “offering” a sit because in the past she has been rewarded for sitting.

So the question is, how do you put the behavior on cue, without encouraging the behavior in other situations?! My answer is this…

You must also teach the OPPOSITE behavior. If you teach barking then you must also teach “Quiet” or “Shush” (as Ian Dunbar likes to call it). If you teach Jumping up on the couch, then you must also teach jumping OFF the couch.

Then when your dog has learned both cues, you then only reinforce the unwanted behavior with praise, and immediately reinforce the desired behavior with a HUGE amount of treats. See the difference? Your dog certainly will!

This method allows your dog to CHOOSE between the OK behavior and the FANTASTICTREATSINMYMOUTHTHANKYOUPARTYTIMEEXCITING!!!!! behavior.

This method has been extremely effective for me in certain situations. For instance I had a client that I could barely talk to or hear over their Fox Terrier’s incessant, piercing, shrieks for the first 10 minutes of our session. So I stopped talking and focused on the dog. Ten minutes later the dog was CHOOSING to be quiet for long stretches (minutes at a time), so that I could continue my explanations to her caretaker. I have also used putting barking on cue for an SPCA dog who was driving the SPCA’s staff and neighbors insane.

Putting barking on cue, then making Quiet the preferred behavior is only the first step. It doesn’t mean your dog will never choose to bark again. But if you follow this training up with foundation behaviors, and alter your own habits on when you reinforce (yes, yelling at your dog when they bark IS reinforcing them), then your dogs inappropriate behaviors will come under control.

Canine Sports: Agility

Tuesday, September 14th, 2010

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I have just finished teaching the foundation agility class (8 weeks) for Dog Agility Wellington Group (DAWG) for this term.  So I thought I would comment on canine sports.

Most dogs love it. They love it because it gives them a way to burn energy and its fun for their owners as well. Let’s be honest, many people don’t actually like walking their dog. They want a dog for companionship but don’t always want to walk him in the rain, even when he desperately needs the exercise!

Agility is also fun for the dog because they have to think about what they are doing! Dogs don’t have to think on a walk, but in agility they actually have to put their mind to use, this burns even more energy than just physical exercise alone and it stimulates their minds making them a dog who thinks, not just reacts.

Agility is also promotes the human-canine bond, they learn to watch you for cues, and trust what you tell them, the connection between an agility handler and their dog is truly an amazing thing.

If you have been thinking about starting agility there are some things you will need to think about first.

1. Is your dog suited to agility? If your dog is very young (under a year),  elderly, has arthritis, or hip dysplasia, agility is probably not such a good idea, maybe look into Rally-Obedience!

2. Do you already have some voice control of your dog? Although a beginners class is 99% on lead, the next levels up require a lot more off lead work, it is good for your dog to already have a basic ability to follow voice control, so you don’t end up tugging them around by the collar, which is really no fun for anyone.

3. Is your dog highly reactive? If your dog barks and lunges at other dogs, you should address this issue before bringing them to any group class. It is not a good idea to put a dog in a situation that is well beyond their capability, you will only stress your dog out and cause yourself frustration. Seek a private behavior consultant first.

Many of those who start agility, start for the fun, and stay because of the competition. Agility is a lot of fun for both dog and handler, and there are plenty of competitions run by local clubs to join and test yourselfDSC_2748 on. And  don’t be worried if your dog doesn’t do really well at first, agility is so different from what most dogs  do that it takes some time to show them all the rules and help them understand what’s going on. Feel free to practice at your own pace and not get too caught up in the competition side of things, sure its exciting to win, but what’s really important is that you and your dog are having fun!

Book Review: Scaredy Dog! Understanding and Rehabilitating Your Reactive Dog by Ali Brown

Tuesday, September 7th, 2010

Tonka (3)

What a fantastic book with practical applications for working with a reactive dog.

If you have never read a dog behavior book before and you are trying to work with your own, or help someone with their reactive dog, then this book will be immensely helpful.  The beginning of the book covers basic dog behavior, how dogs learn, and what can cause reactivity. Brown also covers basic learning theory and ways to manage a reactive dog safely before you even start training.

When clients call me with reactive dog issues they are scared, frustrated and want it to end… NOW please. And boy, can I relate. Dogs can become reactive for all sorts of reasons, you can have a very well socialized dog that as he gets older decides he doesn’t like to be bowled over and jumped on by ill-mannered puppies. Or maybe a single traumatic event happens and now he thinks all dogs are scary. For whatever reason you now have a reactive dog and you are struggling to manage your dog’s triggers. This situation is stressful, it is frustrating, but believe me, you are not the only one with a reactive dog and there are effective ways to manage the situation and help your dog learn to cope.

Rehabilitating a reactive dog can take weeks or months. Rehabilitation never really ends. You will always have to maintain a certain level of practice for your dog to continue to feel safe and non reactive. Learning how to rehabilitate your dog is more of a lifestyle change than a training program. This can seem daunting, but when your dog is a member of your family and a good friend, it is much more daunting to think about giving them up and passing on your responsibility to someone you don’t know and may just make things worse (yes I know I have trust issues).

So if you are struggling with a reactive dog, stop being embarrassed, realize that many people have gone through this before and have successfully  rehabilitated dogs. Get this book and get a good behaviour professional to help you out!