Archive for August, 2010

Jump for Love!

Tuesday, August 31st, 2010

DSC03867

Jumping is one of those major issues people seem to hate about their dogs. So I feel it  is time to address this issue here.

Dogs jump for a couple of different reasons, in the picture to the left, you can see my dog, Cooper, jumping in excitement for a tennis ball. But notice how he isn’t using my hubby as a spring board, he is simply showing his excitement, and when asked to sit for the incoming ball throw, he will sit at the speed of lighting, reading himself to launch after the ball.

This polite jumping is not accidental, it is the kind of jumping we taught Cooper was acceptable in this situation. By giving a ‘no reward marker’ or stopping play when his jumping became too rambunctious, we gave him clear and consistent signals that jumping on legs or physically grabbing the ball was unacceptable behavior.

You can teach no jumping at all in a very similar way. The biggest issue people have with jumping is when their dog jumps on them, a visitor, or a child when greeting them at the doorway. The reason dogs do this is not related to  dominance or aggression, but because they are excited and happy! The natural way for dogs to greet pack members returning from a hunt is to sniff their mouths and necks. This helps them find out where their mates have been and what they have been up to. It is also a show of submission when they lick around the other dog’s face and mouth.

I know it doesn’t look like a submissive behavior when a 20 KG bull terrier is launches himself towards  your face with his tongue protruding, ready to give you a doggie facial, but to a dog, our mouths are inconveniently high! It is quite instinctual to want to show your ‘dominant’ pack members how much like a puppy you are and how you would love it if they just regurgitated a little food for you!

Now, this does not mean I am advocating letting your dog face mop you whenever you come home. What I am saying is jumping, licking faces, and greeting people as they enter the ‘den’ is quite natural for dogs, so it doesn’t make any sense to punish the behavior. That would be like punishing a western businessmen for offering to shake hands with a Japanese businessmen.

The Jumping behavior is, however inappropriate behavior for greeting human pack members. Therefore your dog must be taught the correct way to greet humans, just as the western man must be taught to bow properly to greet the Japanese man.

There are a number of things you can do, exercises or just practical routines to follow, that will give your dog instructions on how to fit in better with his family.

Make a leader’s entrance: Enter the house calmly with head up and body relaxed. Do not speak to, look at or touch your dog for at least 3 minutes or until your dog has shown you calm behavior. If your dog is getting pushy and insistent than walk forward into your dogs “space” and claim that space as your own, again without words, just using your body language and behavior to give your dog the ‘hint’. Go about your normal routine as if your dog wasn’t their.

No reward marker: Enter through the door, as your dog jumps exit and shut the door. Only enter when the dog is sitting, or backs up from the door. Alternatively- Enter completely, then when he jumps cross your arms, turn your body away by 45degrees and look at the corner of the ceiling. Continue this behavior until your dog offers a sit, or backs off. This exercise is very affective when you don’t talk to your dog at all when you enter.

For guests or children: For adult guests, instruct them on how to perform these exercises, this can help a dog generalize the new ‘sit at the door’ behavior, but be sure to practice with your dog yourself at first. You will find that some guests, children, and the elderly will not be able to help you with this practice. For these cases you should manage the situation by crating your dog with a safe toy or a chew treat before the guests enters.

Some of these will work for your dog, others may not (or may take awhile). A lot of it depends on how long the jumping habit has gone on for, how bad it has gotten, and how consistent you are with following the new routine.

SPCA Cupcake Day!

Sunday, August 29th, 2010

The Best Cupcake

Just a quick reminder that this Monday is the SPCA’s annual Cupcake event. So if you like cupcakes, or you like making cupcakes, go to your local SPCA and bring them a batch to sell, then buy a bunch that someone else has made!

I have never made cupcakes before but I had inspiration this morning when I sat down at the computer to look up recipes. I knew I wanted to use cream cheese frosting (my favorite) but I don’t always feel very good about eating cupcakes. I am one of those people that likes to REALLY enjoy what I eat and if I don’t LOVE it I don’t want to waste my time and calories.

So I decided Carrot Cupcakes! My favorite kind of cake and also goes fabulously with cream cheese frosting, perfect:) And I am happy to announce that they came out perfectly. I even added a little lemon zest to the frosting so it has a nice citrus undertone. I hope whoever buys them to support the dogs and cats looking for homes, really enjoys them!

Natural Diet and Nutrition

Wednesday, August 18th, 2010

Bruno

I first got interested in the subject of canine nutrition when I got my dog, Cooper. He never liked eating. For years I had heard that if dogs won’t eat their food it is because they are picky, or trying to “control” meal time.

But Cooper didn’t seem to be trying to control anything, he just didn’t care much about food, he would wander over to it, sniff, take a couple bites, then leave it for awhile. He never asked for anything else instead.

Then in 2007 around March-April, there was a major pet food recall. Dog and cat food was recalled from dozens of brands, some very “high quality” Vet and pet store brands! Over 5,000 cats and dogs died in those months across America and no one knew what caused it. The problem was widespread and became deadly extremely fast. Within 3 three days of eating contaminated food the pets would go into kidney failure, most of them died.

I was living in Singapore at the time, and although one of the brands I used for my pets was in the recall, the contaminated food seems to have just gone to the US and Canada. This was a huge awaking for me. What was IN our pet’s food?!  More than just unintelligible ingredients it turned out that more than one contaminant had been in the affected pet foods including rat poison. On their own, each contaminate would have eventually killed many pets, but probably much more slowly and in such a way that no one would have suspected the food as the direct cause. But the contaminants together reacted and made the food deadly, almost immediately.

Having spent much time working and feeding carnivores in zoos, I had plenty of experience feeding a raw, natural diet to those animals. Were dogs and cats any different? In some ways, yes they are. In most ways they are exactly the same. The biggest difference is in their introduction to a raw diet. Dogs and cats that have been on commercial food their entire life can sometimes become “addicted” to the processed food. For the first week of adding raw food to a dog’s diet they can sometimes get a small amount of diarrhoea, because the natural enzymes used for breaking down proteins haven’t been needed for the processed food, so it takes about a week to build them back up again. Cats will sometimes ignore raw food, the only explanation is that they are creatures of habit, and the new healthier food doesn’t “look or smell” like commercial food, so they don’t eat it.

I still have trouble getting my cats onto raw food. My dogs however, eat it with gusto. I love feeding time actually, the crunching of raw bones is so primal and they seem to have so much fun! Cooper never looks dejected by his meals anymore. Both my dogs have been on a completely raw natural diet now for 1 year. The benefits have been noticeable and include; Clean teeth, clean breath, small faeces that is hard and easy to clean up, their skin and coats are shiny and healthy. A Natural diet also has the added benefits of longer lives with less disease.

However the raw natural diet is not for the feint of heart. It is not overly convenient, and you have to make sure your animals are getting a good balance of many different types of food, including some vegetables prepared properly for optimum digestion. If you are interested in learning more about canine nutrition then I would highly recommend reading up on the subject. Not everyone has the same opinion, although even most pet  food companies now admit that adding 1-2 raw meaty bones a week is good for your pet’s dental health. A few books that could help you are Give your Dog a Bone –Ian Billinghurst (how to feed a balanced raw diet), Food Pets Die For –Ann M. Martin(why not to feed commercial),  and Raw Meaty Bones –Tom Londsdale (the possibilities that commercial foods actually cause diseases).

I found the Ian Billinghurst book the most helpful if trying to move to a raw diet.

What is an Ethologist / Behaviourist / Dog Trainer?

Sunday, August 8th, 2010

DSCF6646 There are a number of definitions and qualifications for canine behavior consultants. The reality is this, there is no official qualification in the US or in NZ/AUS. Anyone who thinks they know something can call themselves whatever they want. So as a professional (vs hobbyist/self taught trainer) we try to find certifications that show that we have proved to a group of our peers that we have a extensive understanding of of canine behavior, learning theory, and problem solving skills. There are numerous ways and different associations that support these certifications. And each trainer/behaviourist/or consultant you meet will have a different set of qualifications.

These associations not only provide educational support to their members,  they usually provide a certification process. These certification programs vary but can involve an exam or series of essays and case studies you must submit for peer approval. Many of these various associations will accept certifications from other well know associations so you don’t have to recertify if you want to be a certified member of more than one.

There are also a huge number of books on the various canine subjects that are well worth reading. I do book reviews of many of the books I am reading on my blog and so if you are interested in finding out more about these, that is a good place to start.

Then you will find the differences in what people call themselves based on how they train.

-Behaviourists are usually based on a Skinner philosophy that hold very strictly to the idea that behaviors must be observable and  “discounts any independent activities of the mind”. In reality many trainers who use the term “behaviourist/behaviourism” do not realise that is has no association with canine psychology, so they usually have a little of that thrown into their training paradigm.

-Most obedience instructors use learning theory and I have found that although they can train a dog to do almost anything, they will have a hard time explaining “how” they got the dog to do it! They usually site a training method like “dominance theory”, or “positive reinforcement” to explain what they are doing. But if you ask them to explain the principals of their training you will get a huge variety of responses, some quite reasonable and some so far out in imagination land that they are laughable, (I once heard a obedience instructor tell his class in all seriousness that you shouldn’t bow to your dog or he will think he is “King”). In what universe do dogs, live in and understand monarchies?

An Ethologist is someone who observes behavior and tries to understand why the behavior is happening, usually based on how an animal behaves in its natural environment.  As a consultant who considers herself a canine ethologist, I would observe the dog and listen to my clients observations of their dog’s behavior, then formulate their training plan based on these observations. A training plan would include reasons for these behaviors based on their instincts, environment,  previous experiences, and on the dog’s observable temperament. Observable temperament is what a dog is likely to do in any given situation.   Then I would find some possible alternate behaviors, using the laws of learning, and change the dog’s motivation in that situation. This involves teaching new behavior patterns and alternate acceptable behaviors in the form of basic or advanced obedience cues put on automatic.

The cues themselves are unimportant, except for the fact that they build confidence in the subject (the dog), that their trainer (the owner) is reliable, calm and confident. They teach the dog how to learn to learn, enjoy learning, and teach the dog’s caregiver how to change the dogs motivation in a situation where teaching an alternate behavior is simply not enough.

Although these training styles differ, I am sure you have noticed that they are also all linked. You hardly ever meet a behaviourist with no understanding of dog psychology or how to teach an obedience cue. You will be hard pressed to find a obedience instructor who doesn’t teach a little behaviourism, and an ethologist must have a good working understanding of the psychology of their chosen species, as well as a clear understanding of the laws of learning in order to explain/solve any behavior problem.

You will still find the occasional “trainer” with little or no experience in any of these fields, so buyer beware. Do a little research yourself, ask a lot of questions and if you are unhappy with, or don’t understand the answers then look somewhere else!